How would you classify yourself? Are you a drifter? Maybe a fighter? Or, like me, you started as one and have evolved after realizing the futility in fighting or giving in. My life can be marked by the different ways I have interacted with the currents in life. From fighter to drifter and, ultimately, someone who realizes that the currents and tides are a resource.
Most days surfing in Texas can be an exercise in futility. Fighting the chop and the extreme currents can destroy your arms and leaving you grasping for air, lying flat on your back, back on the beach. In some places, the currents can drag you a half mile down the beach, or more, in the time it takes you to paddle out. If you aren't paying attention, you could end up with a walk back to the car that is measured in miles. It is always a bit amusing to watch people spend their entire day in a never ending loop of paddling out, ride one wave, walk a mile, paddling out, ride one wave.....These are the guys who have given in to the currents. Leaves you exhausted and empty because you spent 8 hours in the water and rode maybe 10 waves. Not a good expenditure of time.
Then, you have the fighters. These are the guys who paddle out and never stop. They paddle the whole day. This was me, and sometimes still is. Its like paddling on a treadmill. Work, work, work, and...nothing. After about an hour of this, you're too tired to paddle into a wave. Again, you are lucky if you catch 10 waves all day. Another bad expenditure of time.
Then you have your grown ups. These are the guys that don't spend unnecessary energy doing stupid and pointless things. They are focused and confident, disciplined. They understand the flow and how to use it to make life better and more productive. These guys know that if you paddle out into the current (at an angle) and then ride one into the current, you pretty much stay where you want to be using less than half the energy of the fighters and not having a long walk like the drifters. Imagine that. Goal, direction, execution all gained through experience and understanding. Leads to a pretty good day.
But, I love the fighters so for all of you fighters, enjoy free shipping on me. Use Code GROMMET because we are all just dumb kids trying to be grown ups.